Minute one: stop the water at the nearest valve
If the water is coming from a fixture — a toilet supply line, the hose under the kitchen sink, a washing machine connection — there is a small shutoff right there. Look under the sink or behind the toilet for an oval handle on the supply line and turn it clockwise until it stops. Don't waste the first minute fighting a valve that's painted shut or seized; move up the line instead.
If the water is coming through a wall, a ceiling, or from a pipe you can't see, skip the fixture stops and go for the biggest valve you can legally reach. In a house or brownstone, that's the main shutoff — almost always in the basement or cellar, on the street-facing wall, near the water meter. Turn it clockwise. Everything in the building goes quiet.
Speed matters more than diagnosis right now. You do not need to know which pipe burst, whether it's hot or cold, or whose fault it is. You need the water off. Everything else in this guide happens after that handle stops turning.
In an apartment, the valve probably isn't yours — call the super
Most NYC apartments don't have a single unit-wide shutoff you can reach. Fixtures have stops, but the risers — the vertical pipes feeding your line of apartments — are controlled from the basement or a locked utility closet. That's the super's territory. Call the super or resident manager first, before anyone else, and say the words “burst pipe, active water.” Building staff can kill a riser in minutes, and they have keys to the apartments above and below you.
In a co-op or condo, also call the managing agent's emergency line — it's on the lobby notice board and your monthly statement. In a rental, your landlord or management company should have a 24-hour number; if they don't, that's a problem for later, but text and call anyway so there is a timestamped record that you reported it immediately.
If you can't reach anyone and water keeps coming, call 311. New York treats loss of essential services seriously, and a 311 complaint creates an official record and routes pressure to the owner through HPD. For water gushing in the street or sidewalk — a city main rather than your building — 311 is also the right call; that side of the curb belongs to the city, not your plumber.
Cut the electricity near the water
Water and live wiring share your walls. If water is running near outlets, light fixtures, or anything plugged in, go to your breaker panel and switch off the circuits for the wet rooms — and if the panel isn't labeled, the main breaker is the blunt but safe option. Never touch the panel while standing in water or with wet hands. If the panel itself is wet or sits in a flooded basement, leave it alone and call your utility.
A ceiling fixture with water pooling inside it is not a curiosity — it's a hazard. Don't flip the light on “to check.” Cut the circuit first. If the ceiling is bulging with trapped water, a small controlled drain hole made with a screwdriver — bucket underneath — beats an uncontrolled ceiling collapse.
Unplug what you can safely reach in the dry areas next to the leak. Water travels along joists and shows up two rooms away, so lamps, routers, and anything sitting on the floor nearby should come off power. This is sixty seconds of work that prevents a second insurance claim.
Document everything — your insurer will ask
Once the water is off and the power near it is cut, take out your phone. Shoot a slow video walking through every affected room, narrating what you see and when it started. Then take stills: wide shots of each room, close-ups of the source if visible, the waterline on walls and furniture, soaked rugs, warped flooring. Your phone timestamps everything automatically — that timeline is evidence.
Don't throw anything away yet. Adjusters want to see damaged items, not hear about them. Move things to dry ground, but keep the ruined rug rolled in a corner until your insurer says otherwise. Save receipts for anything you buy tonight — fans, a wet vac, a hotel room if the place is unlivable. Reasonable emergency costs are often part of a claim.
Notify your insurance company the same day, even with incomplete information. Renters: your policy covers your belongings; the building's policy covers the structure. Owners in co-ops and condos: where your responsibility ends and the building's begins is written in your proprietary lease or bylaws, and adjusters on both sides sort it out faster when the water's path is documented. If the water came from — or went into — a neighbor's apartment, exchange contact info and photos now, while everyone is standing in the hallway.
Dispatch a licensed plumber with the right details
With the water stopped, you've converted an emergency into an urgent repair. Now get a licensed plumber moving. When you book, give the details that change what they bring: where the water was coming from, whether you got it shut off and at which valve, hot side or cold if you know, what floor you're on, and whether the super needs to open the basement. A plumber who arrives knowing the riser is already off works a different job than one walking into live water.
In NYC, plumbing repair is licensed work — anything beyond tightening a supply line belongs to a Licensed Master Plumber or a crew working under one. If the burst means opening walls or replacing runs of pipe, the license is what makes the repair filed, inspected, and real. Our guide to verifying a plumber's license shows how to check any license number against the public DOB roster in about two minutes.
This is the exact situation Reset was built for. The board shows which licensed plumbers can move right now, with price bands and trip fees published before you book. And every emergency request is backed by the Reset Guarantee: confirmed within 30 minutes, or Reset's in-house crew is dispatched automatically. Either way, someone is on the way.
The next 24 hours: dry it out, fix it for real
After the plumber stops the bleeding, the clock starts on moisture. Mold can take hold in damp building materials within a day or two, so move air immediately: windows open, fans pointed at wet surfaces, dehumidifier running if you have one. Lift rugs off wet floors, pull furniture away from wet walls, prop cushions on their edges. If baseboards or drywall are soaked they may need to come off — a decision for daylight, but don't let “it looks dry” fool you. Water sits inside walls.
Understand what kind of repair you got. An emergency visit often ends with a patch — a clamp, a cap, a replaced valve — that stops the water but isn't the permanent fix. Ask the plumber directly: is this permanent, or does a section of pipe need replacing? Get the answer, and the scope of the real repair, in writing. If substantial pipe replacement is coming, permit filings may be part of it; a licensed plumber handles those, and they protect you at sale or refinance.
Finally, close the loop with the building. Tell the super or managing agent what was done, especially if a riser was shut or other units were affected. In a rental, follow your emergency texts with one plain email summarizing the event, the damage, and the repair. Dated records are what make landlords move and insurers pay.